08/02/2026
Empires, Fungus, and Wars: An Intimate History of Liberica & Excelsa - a guest post by on blog
https://christopherferan.com/2026/02/08/excelsa-history-96b/
The first time I saw the name Chari was in this striking picture, titled "1920-1929 Phú Tho - Caféier Chari". Next to the intensely-staring Vietnamese man is the unmistakable sight of an Excelsa tree.
My efforts to understand the word Chari has taken me on an unexpected journey, full of convoluted forces, colourful characters, and painful stories. After three years of trying to connect the dots to understand the rise and fall of Liberica (Coffea liberica) and Excelsa (Coffea dewevrei), I have come to learn more about this forgotten chapter of coffee. But more importantly, to know coffee history is to be faced with the history of empires, of colonialism, of forces big and small, systematic and individual, that shape the landscape we are living in today.
Like cinchona, rubber, sugarcane, or tea, the story of coffee is that of colonisation, exploitation, and commoditisation. The history of Arabica and Canephora and how they spread across the globe has been told numerous times, but what is lost in the narrative is the story of other coffee species, how they were brought from their birthplace in Africa to the other side of the earth, their fleeting moments of glory in world commodities, the spark of hope they briefly lighted up, and their swift demise in planters' dreams and practice. These transient stories are more than a curiosity devoured by coffee nerds to impress other nerds at parties (me being one), but function as a tale, cautionary and inspiring in equal measures, for our modern coffee landscape.
For the past few years, interest in Liberica and Excelsa has been growing, yet pop-culture history of these species is shrouded in murky speculation and hasty copy-and-paste sources with little primary research. This piece is my attempt to help you understand these species better, and perhaps, help you embark on a journey to love and understand Coffea even more.
I would like to thank Dr. Aaron Davis, Dr. Stuart McCook, Jean-Marie Poilane, and Christopher Feran for your comments and feedback.