23/09/2026
Jučer u Noelu: večer posvećena Kelleru i Wittmannu. 🍷
Počelo je mjehurićima Chartogne-Tailleta, a završilo tišinom nad čašom Spätburgundera.
Između toga, Rizlinzi iz najcjenjenijih vinograda dvaju podruma: Morstein, Kirchspiel, Abtserde i Brunnenhäuschen. Vrhunac je donio posljednji par s istog obronka u Westhofenu: Keller bere s Abtserdea, povijesnog srca vinograda, a Wittmann vino potpisuje imenom cijelog Brunnenhäuschena. Jedna zemlja, dva rukopisa.
Za kraj, Kellerov Spätburgunder. Rijetki znaju da Keller njeguje i crna vina iznimne finoće, pa je ta boca za mnoge bila tiho, ali snažno otkriće.
Mjesta je bilo malo, i to namjerno. Vina koja nastaju u tako skromnim količinama ne traže mnoštvo, nego pažnju, tišinu i blizinu, pa smo večer zadržali u uskom, gotovo intimnom krugu.
Kroz večer nas je vodio Suvad Zlatić, Master Sommelier, i uz njega je svaka čaša dobila svoju priču. Kuhinja je jelovnik gradila isključivo oko vina, puštajući vinu da zasja.
Ovakve se večeri u Zagrebu ne događaju često, a kad se dogode, pamte se dugo.
~
Yesterday at Noel: an evening devoted to Keller and Wittmann. 🍷
It began with the fine bubbles of Chartogne-Taillet and ended in silence over a glass of Spätburgunder.
In between, Rieslings from the finest vineyards of both estates: Morstein, Kirchspiel, Abtserde and Brunnenhäuschen. The high point was the final pair, from the same hillside in Westhofen: Keller harvests Abtserde, the historic heart of the vineyard, while Wittmann bottles under the name of Brunnenhäuschen as a whole. One soil, two signatures.
To close, Keller's Spätburgunder. Few know they also craft reds of remarkable finesse, and for many this bottle was a quiet yet profound discovery.
Places were deliberately limited. Wines made in quantities this small do not call for a crowd, but for attention, stillness and intimacy. The evening remained a close, almost private circle.
Guiding us through the evening was Suvad Zlatić, Master Sommelier, with a menu composed entirely around the wines, letting them take the spotlight.
Evenings like this are rare in Zagreb. When they happen, they stay with you.
