07/06/2026
A study in Tiramisù.
This one has been a bit more of a labour of love than usual, mostly because tiramisù is one of my favourite things. It’s something I almost always order if I see it on a menu, and something I’m probably more annoying about than I need to be.
The best one I’ve ever had was Antonio Cavaliere’s when I worked at Ristorante Rinuccini in Kilkenny. Making it, tasting it, trying to understand what made it so good. This one is a different approach, but we’re looking for the same things, proper coffee flavour, lightness, richness, balance, and that compulsive urge to keep eating until you start to question your life choices.
We’ve come at it a few different ways and finally feel like we’re in a place where we’re happy with the core recipe. We make all the components in house: the savoiardi, the zabaglione and the extracted coffee syrup, then build it around whatever espresso we have on bar at the time.
So it’s not really a fixed tiramisù. As the coffee changes, the syrup changes with it. We adjust it depending on the profile of each coffee to find the balance we’re looking for. It depends what works.
We also use the coffee cleared from the grinder chamber between adjustments while dialling in each day. It’s a small thing, but it adds up, and it seemed like a madness to throw good coffee away when it could become part of this.
There’s a little spent coffee crémeux hidden inside each one now, which is not traditional, but is very good. Kind of inspired by another great Italian invention, the Cornetto, more specifically the chocolate at the end.
It won’t always taste exactly the same, and that’s the point. It will change with the seasons and with the coffee we’re using, while giving us another way to highlight the producers and roasters we’ve chosen to work with.
You don’t have to care about any of that, that’s our job because we’re weird like that. Just know that it’s delicious.
On the counter now.
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Thanks for the inspiration, I still have nightmares about the mountain of lobsters we had to cook and the fear of overcooking them, but I still dream of the garlic & rosemary potatoes 🤣
