06/08/2026
| Day 6 |
Istanbul
One of the main hub airports with direct flights from Pristina was Istanbul via Turkish Airlines. Thanks to our nights in the Hyatt Thessaloniki, we earned enough loyalty points for free nights and decided that spending some of them in the Hyatt Istanbul would be an exciting adventure.
We did some research before we arrived and booked a food tour with a local lady, Selina, who organised cookery classes and tours of the local fresh food markets for tourists and students interested in learning more about Turkish cuisine.
We met Selina near the Galata Bridge and were immediately impressed with the itinerary for our day. Starting with the Egyptian Bazaar, we sampled fresh teas, coffee, herbs and spices around traders arguing over saffron. The sheer noise and throng of people in the bazaar may have put some other people off but with the expert guidance of Selina, we bobbed and weaved our way through the crowds. Next stop was the green market.
Towering pyramids of pomegranates, oranges, melons, lemons: the pride with which stallholders crafted their structures was phenomenal. Vats of dolmades, olives, sundried tomatoes, live rolling and baking of filo pastry, tomatoes the size of your hand. Peppered in amongst everything were small groups of stools where older men gathered to drink fresh tea delivered by younger men whirling around corners with gold metal trays. To this day in the cafe, we serve our mint tea using only a sprig of fresh mint leaves like we had in Istanbul. The smell of sh**ha and baked pastries, the cries of attention for you to visit a stall, the crash of boxes and the chatter of customers; it was utterly breathtaking.
It really struck us how different life was back home in Scotland. Things have progressed with a resurgence of farmers markets, but this was something on a scale and complexity that feels impossible to resurrect because of human behaviour. The quality was simply unbelievable at an absurdly low price. To describe someone as “rich” simply based on their ability to access this standard of produce was a worthy moniker. But in addition to the quality, it’s just “the norm” to shop at fresh markets so the demand is there to reward the effort and time involved in such huge operations. It’s not just Istanbul of course, all over the continent, all over the world, you can witness tremendous fresh markets that have stood the test of time based on generations of tradition and support through regular use.
The final part of the day’s tour was to hop on one of the ferry taxis across the Bosphorus river from the European side of Istanbul to the Asian side. Selina had booked us a table at “Ciya Sofrasi” in Kadikoy. Plate after plate after plate of an original mezze where small dishes are brought when they are ready and are designed to be enjoyed either on their own or in combination. A giant “balon lavas” a flatbread baked to order that puffs up like a balloon, presented to the table on a raised tray. The sheer gravitas with which food is presented is awe inspiring.
Owned by Musa Dağdeviren, Ciya Sofrasi has grown its reputation because Musa has travelled throughout Turkey to small villages and remote regions to recapture recipes and food traditions that have been lost over the years. Musa perfects these dishes and puts them on the menu to evoke food memories for diners who might not have eaten such a dish in more than a generation. Musa was featured in the Netflix series “Chef’s Table” that followed him as he travelled throughout Turkey and documented his process for speaking to local people, sharing meals, memories and conversations about the importance of food and flavour and how it differs from one village to the next.
Turkish food in the UK for the uninitiated is known for kebabs and a small range of generic dishes confused as Middle Eastern cuisine. Musa has recovered hundreds of lost recipes and has published cookbooks celebrating the diversity of his culture to give a clear message to the world that Turkish food is so much more. Rosewater, Lamb, Curd Cheese, Pomegranate Molasses, Cherries, Veal and Mint. Just as Scottish cuisine around the world has a stereotypical theme of haggis, deep-fried mars bars and shortbread, Musa is making an effort to re-educate an international audience about what real life in Turkey and a real dinner table in Turkey actually looks like!
Our lasting memory of food in Istanbul is the warm welcome and the incongruous link between the cost and quality of the dishes being presented. The essence of hospitality is not based on money and the best service is not just reserved for Michelin star restaurants. Food traditions and food knowledge are precious jewels for any culture that can be so easily lost. Let’s all make sure that Scotland doesn’t lose the most valuable examples of its food culture and let’s all make an effort to savour what us Scots are best known for: the warmest welcome and the best hospitality.
This is day six in our series sharing 31 Food Memories for the 31 Days of August. We would be delighted to have you join us for the journey so please like, share and follow. We’ve got a way to go and the more the merrier!