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vialaporte So, that’s where we want to change things; we want to let you know what we think.

At vialaporte, we think that without some serious competition, restaurant ratings can sometimes go off-piste and set the wrong level of expectation in readers’ minds.

BACK from MEMORY: With Jason Atherton recently launching Little Social and Social Eating House, it’s easy to forget that...
08/11/2024

BACK from MEMORY: With Jason Atherton recently launching Little Social and Social Eating House, it’s easy to forget that Pollen Street Social only opened back in 2011. Reaching *1 star status in less than a year and ranking 84th in Restaurant Magazine’s The World’s Best 50 Restaurants, Jason Atherton's flagship restaurant just off Regent Street shows no sign of decay and still serves as one of the hottest dining spots in London, thanks to its playful and contemporary concept.

The oyster ice cream showcases flashes of brilliance. The dish reconstructs an oyster into a mouth watering ice-cold creamy sensation that maintains the essence and sweetness of the shellfish; the best of both worlds.

The full English breakfast on the other hand redefines the meaning of the English classic, producing robust flavours in an elegant way using top quality produce.
The Orkney scallop sashimi is another fun and engaging dish that has a sleek presentation without sacrificing flavours. The horseradish snow and pickled ginger together with the raw scallop deliver a taste of Japan with a modern European twist.

Meanwhile, meat courses play homage to fine British cooking. Although nothing is too innovative, the braised lamb neck with reblochon glazed potatoes is packed with richness and carries great depth of flavour, while the meat just holds all the elements wonderfully together.

Pollen Street Social delivers a one-of- a-kind dining experience in London by producing high-quality modern dishes in a relaxing and informal setting. While all the media and bloggers are raving on about Jason Atherton's latest offerings, the real magic is still happening in his flagship London restaurant.

held its 1* Michelin for 13 years, closing 31st July 2024 - not discontinued - applause

La trouvaille fraîche du quartier. .restaurantIn the hood we found interesting Mediterranean meet middle East combo mixN...
24/09/2024

La trouvaille fraîche du quartier. .restaurant

In the hood we found interesting Mediterranean meet middle East combo mix

Nice ingredients... nice cooking

Nothing goes wrong here

Nice wine list.

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay : BACK from MEMORY when we experienced Clare Smyth - she trained under Alain Ducasse at Louis X...
12/09/2024

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay : BACK from MEMORY when we experienced Clare Smyth - she trained under Alain Ducasse at Louis XV in Monaco - and now owns CORE *** but she was running Gordon’s for a long time.
Front of house side, the Maitre’d has that kind of natural talent that so many Maitres’d could only dream of. He is engaging and quickly builds a rapport with you. Stopping after your aperitif arrives to greet you, he will run you through the various menus, telling you about the chef’s thoughts behind the dishes, which creates an intimate feeling and an expectation of something special to come.
The all-important bread and butter. Both salted and unsalted are offered and happily given. Out of the six home-baked breads, the potato bread was certainly Symth paying homage to her Northern Ireland. A very pleasing addition it is too, as were the rosemary and olive breads.
Onto the food proper, and a delightful, velvety pea mousse, decorated with deep rocket oil dots, turned cucumber, radish and pretty pansy flowers is a refreshing amuse-bouche. The generous salt-cod purée on top of a tartine, covered with Mediterranean gems is a small triumph.
Onto mains and the delicately spiced Szechuan duck breast, perfectly rosé is tender and delicious with the duck stock reduction. Best of all though are the mini pickled shallots, which are held in place by sweet roasted garlic purée. A perfectly balanced meal , with acidity, deepness and texture.
Smyth continues a faultless service with dainty morsels of spiced, roasted pineapple, served alongside freshly cooked coriander financiers. While the flavour from the seeds is delicate, the accompanying micro-herb really heightened the taste, which is rounded off by a luxurious coconut cream sorbet.
Ramsay and Smyth have obviously taken great care to ensure that the Royal Hospital Road experience is truly faultless. – bravo.

If you go to Toulouse and you want to experience a strong young modern vibe of Michelin, after spending time scanning al...
04/09/2024

If you go to Toulouse and you want to experience a strong young modern vibe of Michelin, after spending time scanning all restaurants, of courses wanted to give the chance to younger generation, and didn’t fail, enjoyed so much chef’s creative from .restaurant

Contrast, more contrast. Memory kept from every angle, will almost remember all of the courses.

And it all started with that ‘surf and turf’ approach of done in a very fat and fat with freshness of bonita dashi. All those fish eggs covering the liver barely cooked. Insane, as every mouthful was so full of velvet fat, combo of sea fat and land fat, sumptuous.

Next, that vernis (kind of clams) which was covered with that garum gel (old fish fermented sauce homemade) and that insane again contrast with that dried ‘coeur de boeuf’ paste. unbelievable chock of flavor. Bitter, meets seafood. And on the side that courgette flower is stuffed with aubergine!!! and topped with coriander flowers. STOP, This is high class.

Certainly the most accomplished and impressive was the Lobster tail. When you reach the understanding of french classical to perfection, how Guy Savoy or Mr Ducasse would have mastered it. Velvety creamy bisque, lobster tail almost tartare and lobster oil. But what was insane was the side by side with the lobster claws shredded in a ravioli, served into the strongest reduced dashi of the ‘carapace’ so strong. A winner!

What we really were so impressed was like when we went to where the chef treats the in*******se of cheese as a main dish. Sumptuous creamy layer of Morbier stuffed goat cheese, topped with torrefied hazelnut, and very old gouda grated on top. Creamy and bitter. What else?

In a nutshell, the chef has a strong mindset, with exceptional understanding of contrast, from start to finish, including the dessert of citrus, with that paste of lime and cedrat.

big thanks to the team also.

Service : 5/5
Food : 5/5 (path to 2**)
Decor Atmosphere : ⅘ (maybe just a bit clinical, but it’s a detail)

if you go to  , don’t miss going to .arcachon Far from the very buzzy and trendy and hype of the Pyla side, but certainl...
21/07/2024

if you go to , don’t miss going to .arcachon

Far from the very buzzy and trendy and hype of the Pyla side, but certainly one of the real foodie places i.e. a real chef with real talent and not a battery of fashionistas doing for influencers.

in the plates, just insane quality products, cooked to perfection.

We will absolutely remember this amazingly fresh stone bass carpaccio, simple with this kind of coleslaw asian style, totally leaving the fish rise and delivering its buttery flesh. Sumptuous. Or that Paté en croute from Landes duck (can’t be in that side of France and not try this). What else, pistachio and foie gras! can’t beat that.

as main, ‘omg’ that lamb was a killer. amazing quality, cooked to perfection rosé. those gnocchi insane light quality, totally melted in that eggplant caviar, smoky to perfect balancing.

Or that ‘plat du jour’ sumptuous certainly sous vide porc, with that smokey pepper and reduced juice. a plate simple in the products, but that is where you need amazing product quality, expert cooking and sneaky balancing to get it right. And it was!

But certainly also, that dessert, that we will all remember. when simplicity reached the maximum level. Creamy, bitter perfection with that insane chocolate velouté, then that foam of hazelnut chantilly. Certainly one of the best ever “chou” ever had.

On top of that, really good selection of wines and a very friendly staff

Service : 5/5
Food : 5/5
Decor Atmosphere : 5/5

Will be back? yes 👏

Been a while we wanted to try  and as we’re not living in the area, nor had time to cross to the Marais to go for lunch,...
03/07/2024

Been a while we wanted to try and as we’re not living in the area, nor had time to cross to the Marais to go for lunch, was a perfect opportunity to get there for a UK bank holiday.

As expected, perfect. The combo of French and Japanese fusion isn’t new, however some places master it, some fail. at Les Enfants Rouges we just simply discovered the talent of chef Dai Shinozuka and its clever way to associate amazing french products with Japanese influences.

from that statement, how do you expect to find your Vichyssoise? Interestingly warm, but that jerusalem artichokes brings the unexpected touch as well as the lemongrass oil. Fresh while strangely warm.
But the winner was that tuna tataki, with that onion juice that rendered the combo almost grand mothery. But that dill freshness bringed that necessary contrast. It was winter and spring all in one plate

on the main side, OMG the kind of fish and chips done with that amazing quality, but with that seaweed ‘Dashi’ sauce!! sirupy and velvety, brining the sea while eating.

But of course, no one can beat the ‘choux farci’ , such a respect of the years spent with where bistros reach gastronomie in a Bitronomie excellence.

the choux stuffed with duck and foie gras? What else is needed? nothing apart from that insane velvety armagnac sauce, which has oddly some citrusy flavor on the background.

Even dessert was superb, but especially this ‘Cheesecake’ OMG…. the creamiest ever tasted. Even told the chef and the young chef patissier that I will contact them…. it’s done ;o).

Sumptuous



Wanted for a long time try .pantagruel and no disappointment here. Amazing setting, amazing set up with all those ladies...
20/12/2023

Wanted for a long time try .pantagruel and no disappointment here.

Amazing setting, amazing set up with all those ladies in the waiter team and the boys in the kitchen…cool touch

And in the menu….just spot on

And will remember for life two courses

That lobster croque monsieur….just a simple and sumptuous idea….was almost perfectly done…just maybe the bisque was a bit too reduced….so strong that somewhat overwhelmed the delicate lobster flavor….but a detail certainly or a personal choice.

And that starter…the egg in crazy ways….that blancmange…. that egg parfait…

But will also remember that small touch….of Jerusalem artichokes pithivier with hazelnut on the side of my beef…. sumptuous and joining perfectly this beef cheek cooked to perfection and glazed and so chinny…confort

Clearly…. chef is in a good direction for elevating this place, and why not reach a second star sooner than we think. Well done. 🔥

Vincennes, limitrophe  : it’s famous insane dungeon castle and also the  more recent flagship restaurant, open after his...
17/12/2023

Vincennes, limitrophe : it’s famous insane dungeon castle and also the more recent flagship restaurant, open after his amazing .restaurant

What to think about it? amazing food (as expected), top service, setting.

One significant DOWN, it’s a bit . While the food is really well set, ‘rapport quality prix’ can’t say the same with the beverages: very expensive. That leaves a bitter tone at the end, but it seems that the city of must be the new on the East side.

in the plates: stunning, contrast, quality products. to the level that I certainly had the best ever fish dish I’ve ever had ever in any michelin.
OMG that monkfish barely cooked, it was almost a sushi, with that very rich sabayon fumé, hibiscus dust, bringing that bitterness unexpected and the citrus purée (confirmed being Cédrat with the staff) underneath the fish. contrast, contrast, no umami here, just a slap in our faces.

and it didn’t stop, from that dashi bouillon with the trout and salmon egg and that OMG Yuzu brioche.

that Auvergne beef, those crunchy tuiles, seasonal mushrooms poêlée, and the jus. Everything was perfect.
However, just had our confirmation that sliced truffles over a plate (30 EUR) is just an INFLUENCERS show off artifact. If people over the world with huge amounts of cash want to do that, good on them, they don’t know how to cook and it’s their vulgar appeal.

So overall, if the inflation has indeed touched the globe - and to be fair if you know your economics, it was very limited in FR compared to the ROW - the menu at 110 EUR + 75 EUR of wine flight + 30 EUR for a flute de ? It's really a bit much. Oddly the digestif was correctly priced.

Seems that both places got the same price tag. prices landed in the East. We will stay in the and not enjoy the chef for a while. Glad we discovered it’s work a long time ago, before the .

Not sure what to think of gentrification in Paris, especially when you land in the 20th arrondissement and where the com...
06/12/2023

Not sure what to think of gentrification in Paris, especially when you land in the 20th arrondissement and where the commercial price renting per sq meters is certainly low compare to some other trendy Bastille or even Nation (to some entend).

anyway, was a pleasure to try but the overall dubious mindset can’t really reconcile the price tag of the lunch set menu (gladly available on week ends for 20 EU starter-main) and the average ‘bib gourmand’ set which is only ‘a la carte’ and will maximize to 60 EUR (avg 14 for D, 29 avg for mains, 17 avg starters). This is the price you find in the 75008 (eg Mermoz). So not to think ahead on the direction the restaurant is taking, but clearly, this is ‘hype’.

In the plates: some are good and some adjustable.

Nothing stunning, it was simply good. Very fusion with a french temper.

the seasoning could be more attentional.

The highlight really - and this is stunning is the cheapest deal du jour - with that layered lasagna with beetroot, red onions confit and that ‘pimento’ zabaglione style bechamel Mornay. It was really nice. Would have added a bit of ‘Nduja’ and maybe we would have sparkled some brisure of hazelnut or pine nuts to bring some ‘crunch'. But it’s an ‘affaire de goût’.

ohhhh and special note to the certainly amazing highlight. the revisited ‘tiramisu’ with a decent price tag. Deconstructed, light, salt, tonka bean crumble, OMG a winner - that one could be a one Michelin star.

Overall, will we be back to ? let’s wait maybe for a ‘bib menu’ 45 eur 3 courses, else, not sure the place will survive in the area, even though the Place de la Reunion is becoming the new ‘hype’ of Paris 20.

to be continued. Some adjustment needed.

🤔

When you land in the   region (Haut and Bas Rhin) you know what to expect when you’re french, sauerkraut, bretzel, and t...
15/09/2023

When you land in the region (Haut and Bas Rhin) you know what to expect when you’re french, sauerkraut, bretzel, and tarte flambée (Flammenkueche in German). Nothing can be less appealing when you’re visiting in August. This is where Dordogne is a lookalike, not sure I fancy Foie Gras when the temperature is outside around 30 degrees.

And this is when we will remember for life the prodigious talent of a sustainable chef …. when all ingredients come from the garden and when you push yourself to bring the freshness to the table, with such an amazing contrast.

That Beetroot starter with that raifort ice cream, OMG just insane. Wondering why this wasn’t an obvious combo, and the hint of the pike fish eggs that burst in your mouth. this course put us on a fantastic journey of and definitely not softness. It was the perfect wake up call for our taste buds.

and then everything continued in that direction.

That ‘Omble chevalier’ one of the most amazing clear water fish that is what I call the ‘Turbot’ of the mountains. Simply dropped on a bed of beurre blanc, but lifted with that sumptuous parsley quenelle of fresh herbs, almost like a vigorous herbal chutney.

On the other highlights we will remember that beef loin and that choron sauce. incredible quality of meat accompanied with the mayonnaise with tomato. Insane to the level it was almost naturally turning to the take of a colombo spice mix, but naturally. It was so surprising. Naturally surprising.

And that dessert, unbelievable sorbet of pure black berries, sharp and elevated by the melon ‘flower’ on top. The combo was so unexpected and so fresh, so summery.

So you understood it was a fabulous journey and not covered of root Alsacian layer of rustic food. No it was an incredible traveling of ingredients done in such a contrasted way that it was fascinating. No wonder it has received accolade with its first star.

Chef .jeanlucbrendel Merci and Great amazing job!!


michelin

No wonder this is the price to pay when you land in ‘les beaux quartiers’ of Emily, and you’re facing Jardin du Luxembou...
18/08/2023

No wonder this is the price to pay when you land in ‘les beaux quartiers’ of Emily, and you’re facing Jardin du Luxembourg ‘Senat’, this is how you will sum up your adventure of long awaited by smiley Pierre Chomet chef.

Nothing to say on the food, which interestingly is decently priced for the amazing quality and content.

But on the beverages, OMG, a little glass of champagne Philipponnat almost at the price of Plaza Athenée (18 EUR), when you know even the most milliésimé prices, you know this is the biggest mark up.

and also - come on - 3 choices of ‘apéro’ only? 1 beer, 1 gin-to or 1 bloody mary? It's not that difficult to get the basic classicals, but just 1 bottle of Campari, 1 vermouth, add the gin bottle in your hand, pour, and make a Negroni! 20 sec.

Nevertheless, forget it. Let’s talk food.

Amazing, crazy, sumptuous. I will remember all my life of that beef and orange and that sauce full of szechuan and ginger and that beef base stock. Sumptuous.

or that starter of cauliflower, creamy, with oyster, again a winner.

And I am not into chocolate, and guess what, I could have had three bowls of that smoky very dark chocolate siphon espuma and that buckwheat ice cream: INSANE!

That's a shame, hopefully we will remember the amazing contrast that only Pierre (and Cristina) knows how to bring in Paris. Cooking that french classic with that twist is not frequent in the french capital city.

Let’s hope the sommelier tries to increase his offer on beverages. as well as the wine selection very limited with french wines price tag starting circa 55 EUR per bottle which is very over the top. Even in some 75008 bistro gems you’ll have wines less pricey on the menu from small ‘producteurs’.
If you don’t drink at all, rush to ‘Ambos’ restaurant!

Thanks to Chef Pierre for coming and serving the plates, a delightful gesture that leaves a nice touch in your memory despite the very expensive bubbles.

Nothing predictable or average with  and this time again this is confirmed. From start to finish it is a theatrical show...
15/08/2023

Nothing predictable or average with and this time again this is confirmed.

From start to finish it is a theatrical show. From amuse bouche to the desserts and petits fours everything is amazing. From truffle, lobster, caviar, to the most expensive ingredients and from the top quality farms / brands, you’ll fly for 4 hours of your life, on an incredible silent journey* with the most amazing team.

I will always remember this crazy good pithivier style tourte that was filled with that sumptuous foie gras. every piece was just a delight, the cooking was pink to perfection. nothing to add, nothin to change.

of also this main course of that , which is the farm where the 3*** star chefs are sourcing the best birds. Done in a non french way, very modern for a change. with that mustard seeds and the mousseline of corn. When Mexican flavor meets French exquisite level of cooking, here you are, delight.

I tried also the lobster - INSANE COOKING

And to finish, of course chocolate (and I am not a chocolate primo gusto), but can’t say anything; this is A Ducasse coco and it comes from the factory near . Superb. but I had to put my spoon into ‘s plate and that ‘fresh herbs’ sorbet that comes from the AD master factory also .

What to say? the wine selection in the same spirit (we took the flight pairing), pricey but insane level, from Sancerre to Cote Rotie to Puligny Montrachet to Rivesalte…

to confirm, Mister Ducasse is a CHEF and amazing man! He is always doing experiences ‘gourmandes’, to top quality that never stops and will mark your life forever. Well done.

Of course there is a price tag for that insane journey, of course this is not the simple bistro on an (* electrical Peniche as we say in ), but this is level on top.

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